|
|
|
|
| The Basics | How to buy the right big-screen TV
|
You'll pay from $500 to $60,000, but price is the easiest part of shopping for a Super Bowl-worthy big-screen TV. Here's how to make sure you're not disappointed.
By Bankrate.com
Dreaming of a big-screen TV? The devil -- and the value -- will definitely be in the details.
Ten years ago, all you had to do was decide your price range, then bag the biggest, baddest set your wallet could support. These days, you have to navigate myriad technologies.
Price and size are still important. (The "big screen" category starts at about 32 inches if you measure the screen diagonally.) But with the emergence of DVDs and high-definition signals, the true test is picture quality.
The goal for the savvy buyer: Make sure the image looks as good in your living room as it did in the store.
"Some big-screen TVs out there have miserable picture quality," says tech writer and expert Corey Greenberg. "In that case, your money would be better spent on a smaller screen of higher quality."
None of it comes cheap. Big-screen buyers pay anywhere from $500 to $25,000 for the screen of their dreams. And one manufacturer recently showed off a prototype plasma TV that would run $60,000.
So if you're stalking the big screen, here are the pluses and minuses of some of the different types now available -- along with the straight story on what ups and extras you need and which ones you can leave at the store:
The candidates
Direct-view CRT (cathode ray tube): This is the old reliable TV you had growing up, and it's still considered the most durable technology on the market. Aside from plasma, CRTs "still deliver the best picture quality," says David Heim, deputy editor for Consumer Reports, who reviewed the best and worst on the market for a 24-page spread in the magazine's November issue. "It got the best high-definition performance," he says. "And in many cases, it was as good as plasma."
And if you're pinching pennies, it's the least expensive technology on the market. Sizes run from 32 to about 40 inches. For the larger models, you can pay $650 to $1,200. Hi-def versions will run $1,000 to $2,500, Heim says.
The downside is that the sets are big and bulky. And they have a smaller maximum size. "And you're sort of buying last year's technology," says Greenberg.
Flat-panel LCD: This is the same technology as a laptop computer screen. The high definition "is either good or very good," says Heim.
Sizes range from 14 inches up to 56 inches. For a 30-incher, "prices topped out at $5,000," says Heim. "I wouldn't start looking for fire-sale bargains yet."
Drawbacks include unknown long-term reliability and price, says Heim. Plus, the contrast isn't as good as with other technologies. "The better the TV, the blacker it gets," says Greenberg. "But you don't get very much beyond dark gray." And the sets will gradually lose brightness over time, he says.
In addition, LCDs tend to have a relatively narrow viewing field, Heim says.
Plasma: "Right now the top of the line as far as picture goes," says Heim. You can also get a colossal screen -- up to 63 inches. "They are way cool," he says.
Greenberg agrees. "Razor-sharp definition, the best colors and they can do pure black." They also have the widest viewing angle, he says. "Even people sitting off to the side of a plasma will get a clear image," says Greenberg.
The biggest drawback with plasma is the cost. In the stores, "prices start around $3,000 and go up to as much as $25,000," says Heim.
Another concern is that no one can really say how long plasmas will last, which is a factor if you're sinking thousands into a purchase. Like LCDs, plasmas will gradually lose brightness over time, he says.
In addition, the sets can have problems with burned-in images if similar pictures or graphics stay on the screen for a prolonged period of time, so they are not recommended for video games or 24/7 use. Still, weigh the options. The problem of burn-in is "played up too much," says Greenberg. "Obviously, it's worrisome for someone who's spending $5,000 to $6,000 for a television."
Two things that aren't widely known: The sets are extremely heavy and generate lots of heat, says Heim. As a result, "you probably need to have a professional install them," he says. In addition, some makers sell the tuner separately, so you need to add that to the tab.
And beware of plasma sets that aren't high-definition, says Greenberg. "I don't recommend $2,000 to $3,000 non-high-definition plasmas," he says. "That's not a very good value." For big-screen value in that range, look at rear-projection high-definition sets, he says.
Rear-projection sets: These are the sets you see in sports bars. They're not as thin as flat panels, but LCD and DLP versions are much thinner than conventional sets. They offer the size of plasma and nearly the clarity. Here's a run-down of some rear-projection options:
Rear-projection CRT: "This is the de facto technology that's been used for the past 10 years," says Greenberg. These are the "bigger, bulkier style" of rear-projection sets, he says. Prices range from $1,000 up to $4,000, and high-definition versions "start at $1,200," he says.
Picture quality "especially for a high-definition version, is very good," says Greenberg. "In some ways it's even better than LCD or DLP quality." Great contrast and will render natural black.
Microdisplay LCD: While these don't come in a flat-panel version, they are much slimmer than traditional CRTs, "so you can shove it against a wall," says Greenberg.
The main advantage is the huge screen size for the money, says Greenberg, who considered this technology "the biggest bang for the buck." Prices range from $1,000 to $6,000. Screens are available as large as five feet. And quality doesn't necessarily mean most expensive. Greenberg tested one 61-inch model that retailed for $2,800. "You'd think it was plasma."
Another advantage is no burn-in problems, so it's better for video games than other technologies.
A disadvantage is that as good as the picture can be, it's "not quite as sharp and detailed as plasma," Greenberg says. Again, it's LCD, so it doesn't show black and can lose brightness over time. Also, sets contain a bulb that has to be replaced every year or two, he says. That costs $250 to $500.
Microdisplay DLP: Digital light processing sets are similar to LCD microdisplays in strengths and weaknesses. Also slimmer and lighter than CRTs. They will not render pure black. As with LCD sets, you have to replace expensive bulbs occasionally.
Between LCDs and DLPs, which technology has the edge? "DLPs have a lower resolution than LCDs, so the picture may not look quite as sharp if you were able to compare it side to side," says Heim. "And they are more expensive: $3,500 to $10,000."
Greenberg doesn't agree. "You can get equivalent performance," he says. "Neither has it over the other in terms of resolution or picture quality. It really depends upon the individual TV itself."
Front-projection TVs: This is not your high school teacher's film projector. The new projectors, whether CRT, LCD or DLP, throw a picture on the wall just as big as you want it. And while the price has come down, the quality has gone up. But it's still not the most practical option for everyday use, so these sets are more the purview of the home theater aficionado.
CRT projector: The market is "really moving away from the CRT technology," says Greenberg. The reason: they require regular maintenance. "Even the best units need to be continually reconverged and recalibrated," he says. But the advantages are the same that you'd find with any CRT product: great contrast, true black and a terrific picture. Prices run from $2,000 up to $15,000.
LCD projector: You can get a very small set that throws a very large picture. "Some very high-end ones, and some entry-level ones, are the size of a couple of paperback books," says Greenberg. Unlike CRTs, they are very low maintenance and require no calibrating.
The picture quality is similar to other LCD sets. Prices run from $1,000 to $10,000.
DLP projector: Advantages are similar to LCD projectors, with the same low maintenance requirement. They tend to cost a little more, running from $1,500 to $25,000. Picture quality is similar to other DLP sets.
How about the extras?
Now that you've selected the type of television you want, how about some of the new features?
Wide screen: Strictly a matter of preference, but techies definitely seem to prefer the wide screen. "If you're spending more than $500 on a TV, it should be a wide screen," says Greenberg. "That's where the industry is going."
Heim agrees. For people who want to get a big-screen high-end television, "going for the wide screen makes sense," he says.
The downside is that if you're watching something that's not in wide-screen format, you will notice black or gray bars on the sides of the screen where there is no picture. Many sets, however, have an optional feature called "stretch mode," which expands the images on the sides of the screen to fit the format, says Greenberg. But while characters in the center of the screen appear as they normally would, if they move to one side or the other, "they look like they've gained 10 pounds," he says.
High definition: "It can be compared to when TV went from black and white to color," says Greenberg. "Whereas regular television looks like television, high definition looks like you're looking through a window."
Terms you might see:- Integrated high definition: Everything you need to capture a high definition picture is in the box. The most sensible and usually the most expensive option, says Heim.
- High-definition ready: "Tells you you're going to have to spend money later for a high-definition tuner," says Heim.
- EDTV: Stands for "enhanced definition television." Not the quality of high definition, but a little better than the normal picture. "Personally, if I want something better than regular TV, I would rather go all the way and get high definition," says Heim. "This is a compromise, and I'm not sure it's going to last very long."
You also need to do a little homework on the signal you're getting, says Andy Pargh, co-author of "The Gadget Guru's Guide to the Best." Just because you have a digital box or satellite dish doesn't mean that you are getting a high-definition signal. If you need to upgrade the receiver, you want to know that before you buy, he says.
Get what you pay for
The best way to get a good buy is still the shoe-leather approach.
The biggest mistake consumers make is "going by the specs," says Greenberg. Instead, he recommends bringing a live-action DVD movie that you've seen several times. Watch portions of that on your top choices and see how it looks. "You will instantly know whether this TV is doing it for you," he says. And if the store balks, walk.
"It's like test-driving a car," Greenberg says. "You will not know if a car's for you until you get behind the wheel and drive it."
|
|
|
|
